As long as I’d been travelling for, I had been really lucky weather wise for the last month with practically no rain. The occasional overcast day but the majority had been sunny. San Sebastián was about to ruin my streak of good luck.
At least the first evening was clear as I wandered around the bay, gazing at the beach and pretty sunset. Thinking of the fantastic beachy plans I had for the next two days with maybe some surfing if the water felt warm enough. At the hostel I enjoyed a surprisingly cosy evening with red wine, a crowded tiny kitchen, and a delicious cooked dinner made by one of staff using an old recipe of his ‘mama’.
I awoke the next day to a heavily overcast sky with impeding rain clouds and a band playing outside in the square next to my hostel. No sleeping in for the hungover allowed. According to the forecast I still had a couple of hours until the rain was due to show so I decided to go and hike the nearby hill with a rather large Jesus statue on top.
Frowning down over the city
A seagull stares thoughtfully at the castle cannon
View of the main surfing bay from the castle on top of the hill
It was while I was admiring Jesus’s frown, that the sky decided to gush a million buckets of water all at once. Lucky I was wearing my rain coat unlike a few of the other tourists. Dodging cats and dogs I scurried back to my hostel to hide for a bit. I did do a little bit of naughty shopping later when the rain lightened. But hey you gotta have a highlight to the day somewhere!
The next day was again fairly miserable with clouds. A chilly wind soon blew those away, but it was then too cold to think about the beach. I did enjoy a walk around the main west beach bay to see the Wind Combs.
Supposedly the iron sculptures comb the wind as it enters the bay giving the city of San Sebastián good luck. Each one weighs over a ton and was apparently very fun to install.
I even saw some brave kite boarders during my walk as the sun peeped out later that afternoon, but on the other San Sebastián beach. The bay located on the east side of the city generally has bigger waves and attracts more surfers. It was still too freezing cold with that chilly wind for me to even want to put a toe in the water.
For lunch I stumbled upon a very delicious hot pinchos bar. It was amaze-balls with cheap prices. During this process I learned how to spot the better pincho bars. You are looking for bars that are generally dirty with lots of rubbish on the floor, which is a sign locals eat there as the Spanish like to wipe their mouths then throw their napkin on the floor. A bar with no seats and full of people, as the Spanish like to stand. Only tourists like to sit. And one that doesn’t charge you before you eat the pinchos. Any bar that breaks those guidelines is probably a tourist trap with usually old cold pinchos on display. The same guidelines apply for finding a good tapas bar in the rest of Spain.
With a happy stomach I grabbed my backpack and was on my way to the meeting point for my next Blablacar ride.
Where I stayed: Roger’s House Hostel
Price: €15 per night in a 6 bed dorm
Overall: A really small hostel but with some of the friendliest staff I’ve ever seen. The kitchen common area was covered in thank you notes and love letters to the staff which was really nice to see. The majority exclaiming their great experience of the hostel. I think if I’d had better weather, as San Sebastián is not the most interesting place when it’s cold and rainy, then I would felt the same way.